Belgium travel guide

Belgium is a land of regal countryside retreats, characterful, booze-soaked bars and the bureaucratic anomaly of Baarle-Hertog, Europe’s oddest border town. Some of the clichés about the country hold true: beer and chocolate are officially essential goods and national cartoon heroes like Tintin and cornets of frites (a Belgian invention, after all) are rarely very far away. Other clichés — not least the persistent myth about Belgium being boring — couldn’t be further from the reality.
As the linguistic divide between Dutch-speaking Flanders and French-speaking Wallonia proves, there is no one Belgium — but rather a term, “Belgitude”, which attempts to grapple with the complicated Belgian soul, also capturing locals’ penchant for self-mockery. It’s the country’s unabashed eccentricity and odd-man-out status that is its greatest joy, playing out everywhere from Magritte’s surreal paintings to the capital’s pint-sized, fashion-loving Manneken Pis statue and a handful of truly sui generis festivals (Ypres’ cat-tossing triennial and the Dinant Bathtub Regatta being top contenders).
Stroll into one of Flanders’ majestic cobblestone market squares, all gabled guildhouses glinting in the sun, and you’ll immediately sense the might the region enjoyed in medieval times. That pomp has been superbly preserved in time capsule cities like Bruges and in the dazzling Baroque and Flemish Primitive artworks that line the walls of the area’s world-class museums. The longer you stay, the more Belgium’s fascinating history reveals itself, with a visit to the First World War battlefields around Ypres a chastening, unforgettable experience.
Belgium isn’t stuck in the past, though: from Antwerp’s edgy fashion credentials to Brussels’ thriving LGBTQ+ scene, it’s in a state of constant reinvention. On the food front, brasseries stocking hearty staples like stoofvlees (beef and beer stew) rub up against high-end creative cuisine, with Flanders counting more Michelin stars per capita than France. The rolling Ardennes is an outdoor activity paradise that’s strewn with picturesque villages and the original wellness retreat of Spa — a necessary detour after you’ve experienced the country’s more decadent side.
This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue
As the world’s second most cosmopolitan city in terms of population diversity, Brussels is about more than the European Union — beginning with its contemporary art scene, which has seen it dubbed the “new Berlin”. Take in the pomp of the Grand Place, boutique-hop around Rue Antoine Dansaert, then explore the neoclassical Upper Town, with its classy museums and Sablon antiques district. Expo ’58 icon The Atomium is a must to the north, while the capital’s art nouveau heritage is best explored in chic Ixelles and hip, bar-lined Saint-Gilles.
For a culture-fuelled city break with a stirring medieval backdrop, Europe has little to rival the Flemish triptych of Antwerp, Bruges and Ghent. The former is the least touristy, with superior shopping on both the fashion and antiques front, and a handful of must-visit museums like the Rubenshuis. Ghent, a rare vegetarian haven, leads Flanders for creative cuisine, while oft-stolen artwork The Mystic Lamb is gleaming and eerily anthropomorphic after restoration and relocation in St Bavo’s Cathedral. Factor in a night in picture-perfect Bruges, where you can climb the vertiginous belfry, then wend among windmills and romantic canals (ideally outside summer’s gauntlet of selfie sticks).
Close by, Belgium’s North Sea coast is just 40 miles long but rich in dune-swept nature reserves. Its dozen-plus resorts, spanning chi-chi Knokke and nicely old-school De Haan, are handily linked by the world’s longest tramline. The port of Ostend makes an excellent base; today the Belle Époque bathing haunt draws art pilgrims — tribute to the collection at Mu.ZEE, the city’s seafront sculptures and the revamped James Ensor House — and abounds in moules–frites pitstops, fine art deco cafes and striking modernist architecture.
Impressive design and architecture credentials (this is the home of interiors maestro Axel Vervoordt) make staying in Belgium a delight — and it’s possible to hop from lavish manor houses to trendy boutique hotels and ornate art nouveau B&Bs. Fortunately, the medieval layout of the country’s oldest towns and cities has helped to keep mega-chains out, putting the accent on characterful, small-scale independents that combine style and warmth. The Ardennes and Belgian Coast are meanwhile popular camping spots, but even major cities tend to have one or two campsites to keep costs down.
As befits its capital status, Brussels is a popular choice for city breaks and is home to celebrity-endorsed haunts like the former prison, Hotel Amigo, and Avenue Louise icon the Steigenberger Wiltcher’s. This is also a great place for boutique hotels and ultra-characterful B&Bs, which prop up old soap shops, showcase young local artists, or serve as an invitation to explore the city’s lesser-known residential districts. The best B&Bs combine a handful of rooms, eclectic decor and five-star continental breakfasts served by the hosts.
Antwerp and Ghent — both struck by the trend for “destination” hotels, often featuring spas, design-led boutiques and noteworthy restaurants — are excellent places to base yourself. There’s no knocking the romance of a stay in Bruges, however. Despite its tiny size, it offers a wealth of cosseting hotels echoing its aristocratic Burgundian heritage such as Hotel Dukes’ Palace and the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce, of In Bruges fame. Canalside mansion Hotel Van Cleef, meanwhile, is both intimate and exquisite.
Idiosyncratic Belgium isn’t short of unique, one-off places to stay: culture-trippers can stay overnight in galleries or museums. Many of the country’s most exceptional hotels occupy deconsecrated buildings, from spectacular neo-gothic churches to former Augustinian convents. You can also bed down in ex-post offices, railway carriages and, tantalisingly, an old maison de rendezvous.
Take to two wheels to really discover Belgium’s countryside; you may be lapped by Lycra-clad retirees — the country’s cycling mania rivals that of the Netherlands — but the scenery will compensate. Idyllic routes include the Bruges to Damme canal, the fertile Haspengouw region near Sint-Truiden, and little-visited Limburg, where much-hailed attraction Cycling through Water has now been joined by the canopy-set Cycling through the Trees, and Cycling through the Heathland, in the beautiful Hoge Kempen National Park. Oudenaarde, the terminus of the Tour of Flanders, has a dedicated bike museum and hotel.
Antwerp, Bruges and Ghent are all well-known Flemish destinations, but Leuven and Mechelen both have an impressive café and culture fix without the crowds. Both are also beer meccas: the former hosts several dedicated festivals in April, while in Mechelen you’ll find the excellent working brewery/hotel het Anker, a couple of important Second World War sites, and St Rumbold’s Cathedral, where you can make the rickety climb to the panoramic skywalk. For shopping, try ancient Tongeren, combining Gallo-Roman roots and the country’s biggest antiques market; Hasselt, the capital of Limburg, has an engaging fashion museum.
If you’d like to explore the country’s First World War sites and cemeteries, Ypres — home to the In Flanders Field Museum and Menin Gate — will certainly be on your radar. But low-key Diksmuide, pretty Veurne, and coastal Nieuwpoort all have fascinating war-related sites and Poperinge (also a beer haven, handy for the Trappist brewery at Westvleteren) is a must. Here you can explore and stay at the brilliant, volunteer-run Talbot House, where soldiers came for R&R from the front lines.
The Belgian coastal resorts are packed come summer (though still rather under-the-radar among British visitors). While in the area, don’t miss sleepy Oostduinkerke: the only place in the world where the tradition of horseback shrimp fishing lives on. On certain days they’ll cook and sell the catch directly on the beach afterwards. Still on a Unesco tip, Belgium’s dozen-odd béguinages — sites where lay religious women once lived — are enchanting places to stroll, not least Kortrijk’s.
Spring and autumn for culture breaks; summer for the coast and Wallonian countryside; December for Bruges with fewer crowds and atmospheric Christmas markets.
Is Belgium safe for tourists?Theterrorist attacksof 2016 at Brussels Airport and on the city’s metro system made world headlines. While Brussels’ status as the EU’s seat continues to make it a potential target, police presence is palpable and it’s no more high risk than any other big European capital. Apart from the fringes of the city’s three main train stations, which can feel sketchy by night, you are highly unlikely to encounter any trouble. Belgium at large is very safe to visit, and crime levels compare favourably with its neighbours.
How many days do I need in Belgium?Belgium is notably compact, and from the capital you can reach most of the major cities within an hour or two by train or car. With 72 hours, you couldfit in a city break based in Brussels or Antwerp, adding on a trip to Bruges and/or Ghent. Extend that to a week or ten days, and you can cover some serious ground, taking in Flanders’ highlights, a countryside stint and the North Sea coast.
What should I know before travelling to Belgium?Since 2017, low-emission zones (LEZ) have been introduced in Antwerp, Brussels and Ghent. If you are planning to drive in these cities and aren’t hiring a Belgian car, register your vehicle beforehand (ideally ten days ahead) and make sure you can enter without buying a special day pass. Belgium’s public transport links are excellent: check the national rail website NMBS/SNBC for deals — some tickets include discounts to attractions.
Inspired to visit Belgium but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Expedia*.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.